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My Review

It took my husband and me about 5 seconds to decide we wanted to stay in a ryokan while in Japan, and Ryokan Motonago was the perfect choice for the experience. Motonago is a small ryokan (there are only 11 rooms), but its size adds to the charm. The hospitality is unmatched.

Our room was upgraded upon our arrival, which was a pretty sweet surprise. After checking in, we were given a quick tour of the ryokan, then brought a sweet treat, along with some tea and water, as we settled in. We decided to spring for both breakfast and dinner while here, which I 100% recommend. The meals are elaborate and delicious. 

Breakfast was a traditional Japanese breakfast (though they also offer a Western-style breakfast if you prefer it). Dinner the first night was a kaiseki meal with different fish prepared in various ways. For the second night, guests are given a couple of choices for dinner. We went with suki yaki, which was equally as delicious. 

You’ll choose what time you’d like breakfast (7:30, 8:00, or 8:30), dinner (6:00, 6:30, 7:00, or 7:30), and when you’d like to use the private bath, so it’s best to plan your excursions around those times. 

Our room was spacious, with simple wood furnishings and minimal but intentional decor to ensure a harmonious experience. We had a lovely view of a tree in the courtyard, and the table where we were served our meals had a heated blanket underneath to keep us comfortable while we ate. The rooms do have TVs (though we didn’t use ours), and the Wi-Fi is strong and reliable. One little detail we noticed was that all electronics were covered with cloth, probably as a way to keep the experience feeling traditional.

The futons were much more comfortable than I was expecting them to be, though you could somewhat feel the firmness of the ground while lying down. That said, we had our best sleep in Japan here, and they provided plenty of blankets. The yukata were comfortable and simple to put on. Since we were there in winter, we were also given robes and hand warmers. This, combined with the generous heating of the rooms, ensured we were never cold.

Most of the rooms here have only a toilet but no shower. That may seem a bit inconvenient, but we were upgraded to a room with a shower and its own bath, and still preferred using the private baths for washing. Reserving a private bath was simple (they’ll ask you about it), and you’ll get an hour to enjoy it (which was plenty of time). After bathing, you can choose from a few complimentary drinks – beer, sparkling water, or sake – to take back to your room and enjoy. 

The ryokan is on the older side (it was built in 1905). It shows its age in some areas but is overall well-kept. However, the soundproofing is not quite up to modern standards. It’s important to be aware of your volume and be respectful to other guests. Part of the ryokan experience is an emphasis on quiet and relaxation, so keep that in mind going on. That said, I loved that we didn’t see or hear anyone else during our stay.

There weren’t many downsides to this stay. The only thing I’ll mention is that leaving and coming back can feel like a bit of a “production.” You have to leave your key with the front desk and wait for them to get your shoes for you each time, which might be a bit inconvenient if you’re trying to come and go a lot. Since we planned for this part of our trip to be a bit more relaxing, this wasn’t a downside to us.

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Pros & Cons

About the Location

Ryokan Motonago is in the Gion neighborhood of Kyoto, a quick walk to Yasaka Shrine, Maruyama Park, and several other temples. The neighborhood is quiet and residential, so anyone staying here will want to be respectful of the locals and not crowd around their homes.

The surrounding area is safe and clean. It felt like a respite from some of the over-touristed parts of Kyoto. There were nearly always people wandering around during the daytime, but it never felt overwhelmingly busy. That said, we were here in late January, so it may have simply been the season.

The restaurants in the immediate area are mostly traditional with kaiseki meals and high price tags. There are a few specialty shops nearby, including a kimono-rental and a souvenir shop. Motonago is about a 15-minute walk to Gion’s entertainment district, where you’ll see maiko and geiko working and have even more options for food. It’s about a 15-20 minute walk to the Kyoto-Kawaramachi Station. There are several convenience stores about 5 minutes away.